After completing all the steps in this tutorial you will have removed the bottom plate, needle plate and all the outer plastics of the machine. There isn't much variation in the order of the steps so I recommend you follow each step in the order it is presented.
You will need to do some or all of this for essential repairs or a deep clean.
See the other tutorials for details of specific repair procedures.
Step 1.
Make sure there is no power going to the machine: unplug the power cable from the wall and the machine. Get your tools together. You will need a Phillips screwdriver, a flat-head screwdriver, and the stubby screwdriver that ought to have been supplied with the machine.
Step 2.
Place the machine on a flat clean surface. As you can see, I chose the wife's ironing board which was less than ideal but was in front of a window which meant taking photos of each stage was easier...
Step 3.
Tip the machine on its side and remove the two small Phillips screws and four 'torx' type machine screws. I use a torx screwdriver for this but a flat-head screwdriver can also be used. Once all the screws are undone remove the plate and put to one side.
Step 4.
Sit the machine on the work surface and undo the Phillips machine screw in the end cap. Remove the end cap and put to one side.
Step 5.
Using the stubby screwdriver undo the two machine screws on the needle plate. Remove the plate, the bobbin (if its still in there) and the inner hook.
Step 6.
Turn to the rear of the machine and undo the four Phillips machine screws as highlighted in the image. Note that the one under the 'Brother' badge is slightly longer than the others. Once the screws are undone the plastic cover can be lifted away.
Step 7.
Still working from the rear of the machine, remove the four brass coloured self-tapping screws. These screws hold the 'front' plastic in place.
Step 8.
With the front plastic loose you can now remove the plastic grill covering the motor area.
Step 9.
Working from the front of the machine, the front plastic can lifted away slightly. I say 'slightly' because there are three connectors that need undoing from the main board before the front plastic comes completely free. The connectors are pictured in the images below. Two of the connectors are small wired 'plugs' and, with a bit of fiddling, should pull free from the main board. The third connector is a flat 'flexi-print' cable. As such, there is no plug on the end and it just needs pulling from its socket on the main board. Try not to twist the flexi-print and note that the end inch or so of the cable is reinforced - this is the best place to get hold of it as it may need a good tug!
Step 10.
With the front plastic removed and put to one side, you can now move on to the remaining two pieces. First, remove the plastic shroud from the XY arm by slackening off the small Phillips machine screw as highlighted in the image. The shroud just lifts away.
Step 11.
Finally, remove the last piece of plastic by very carefully sliding it towards the front of the machine. This can bit a bit fiddly because it can catch on the edge of the opening of the hook assembly.
Refitting
In short, refitting is the exact reverse of the above steps. Three points of note, however:
- when refitting the three connectors in the front cover to the main board, it is easier to refit the flexi-print first. Make the sure the flexi-print is properly seated before attaching the other two connectors.
- the screws for attaching the front plastic cover are self-tapping and screw through the machine body and into the front cover itself - do not over tighten!
- when refitting the rear plastic cover, take care not to pinch the wire that runs across the top of the machine body to the light.
- when refitting the rear plastic cover, the longer of the four Phillips machine screws goes into the hole just below the 'Brother' badge.
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